Posts Tagged ‘CDA’

  1. My CDA/Black IPA/American Black Ale recipe.

    April 24, 2014 by Dukester


    Last week, Logan Thompson over at Blog About Beer posted a question on twitter looking for CDA recipes.  At the time, I was on the road and couldn’t shoot him a copy of my recipe.  So I thought that once I got home, I would brew a batch and post the recipe.

    This recipe was developed in conjunction with my buddy Chad Graham.  At the time we brewed at the end of last summer, we were utilizing fresh hops that were growing in my garden, namely Chinook, Willamette and Fuggle.  We split the 10 gallon batch and each fermented five gallons with different yeast strains.  I used my go to Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale yeast, and Chad used a strain he propagated from a bottle from Prairie Artisan Ales.

    This recipe is loosely based on Deschutes Brewery’s Hop in the Dark CDA. We made a few tweaks using unsulphured Black Strap molasses in place of Belgian Dark Candi sugar as well as a couple of tweaks to the malt bill.  This particular version is an extract recipe with specialty grains utilizing a mini brew in a bag technique.  The recipe is as follows:

    Black Brothers CDA

    Malt Bill

    • 7.5lbs Extra Light or Pilsen LME
    • 12oz Unsulphured Black Strap Molasses
    • 1.5lbs Weyermann Munich I
    • 1lb Gambrinus Pale Malt
    • .5lb Simpsons Black Malt
    • .5lb Weyermann Chocolate Wheat Malt
    • .5lb Simpsons Dark Crystal (70-80L)
    • .5lbs Flaked Oats
    • .25lbs Wyerymann Carafa II

    Hops Schedule and other additions

    • 2oz Northern Brewer (10.3% AA) at 60 minutes
    • 1oz Centennial (8.7% AA) at 30 minutes
    • 1 Whirlfloc tablet or 1 teaspoon Irish Moss at 15 minutes
    • 1 teaspoon yeast nutrient at 15 minutes
    • 1oz Cascade (7.3% AA) at flame out
    • 1oz Citra (12.2% AA) dry hop in secondary


    • Wyeast 1098 British Ale Yeast

    Using a five gallon pot, bring four gallons of water to 155°F and utilizing a coarse nylon straining bag (I use a 24″ x 36″ bag) steep the specialty grains for one hour making sure the mash temperature doesn’t drop below 150°F.  On my stove, setting the electric burner to two usually does a good job of maintaining mash temp.  After one hour, remove the bag from the pot and allow to drain completely, then rinse the grains with hot water until you come back to four gallons.  In this recipe, the grains will absorb a fair amount of water during the steeping.  Bring the steeped liquid to a boil and then remove it from the heat to stir in the liquid malt extract.  If you do not remove the kettle from the heat, the LME will sink to the bottom and scorch giving a burnt taste to the finished beer.  Once the LME is dissolved, return your kettle to the burner, bring to a boil once again.  It’s a good idea to use either a spray bottle full of water, or an anti-foaming agent such as Fermcap-S to keep the foam down as the liquid comes to a boil and avoid a boil over.  Follow the schedule for hop and other additions.

    Chill to 66°F to 68°F then pitch the yeast.  If you have the ability to oxygenate the wort, do so before pitching the yeast.  Ferment until the krausen (foam layer on top of the beer) falls back in to the beer and the surface of the beer is clear (usually five to seven days), then rack into secondary, adding the dry hop addition, preferably using a steeping bag for the dry hops.  Let rest for seven days.

    Rack the finished beer in to a bottling bucket that has been primed with four ounces of corn sugar boiled in two cups of water and then bottle and let the bottles rest for two weeks at room temperature to carbonate, or alternately keg without the priming sugar and apply 14 psi of CO2 pressure for seven days, then serve.

    This is a beer for serving while it is fresh and not for aging, as the hop character will fall off over time and leave you with a cloyingly sweet beer.


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